| New Jersey Restaurant Review
Matt's Red Rooster Grill
22 Bloomfield Avenue
Flemington, Hunterdon County, New Jersey
(908) 788-7050
By The Artful Diner
Special to nj.com
4/25/05
Most of us have vivid remembrances of foods we relished
as children... perhaps the taste of a homey casserole
or hearty soup lovingly prepared in mother's kitchen,
or the indelible impression made by a certain culinary
creation placed before us during one of our earliest
restaurant recollections. Since my father was a chef,
I have many such reminiscences; but none more compassionately
comforting than those incomparable mashed potatoes
consumed in a diner on Newark's Springfield Avenue,
just a few blocks from my grandparent's brownstone
apartment. I was a mere child -- 7 if that -- but
the memory of that utterly hedonistic encounter has
slumbered serenely on my palate, waiting patiently
to be reawakened.
And then, several weeks ago, while dining at Matt's
Red Rooster Grill, I experienced what could only be
described as a sybaritic epiphany. For there, lurking
unobtrusively beneath my tender filet, I discovered
a sensuous pillow of whipped potatoes that prompted
the most overwhelming sense of gastronomic déjà
vu I have ever experienced. The flavor... the texture...
the subtle hint of garlic... of seasonings... of butter
and cream... all in just the proper proportions. A
childhood taste memory brought to ultimate fulfillment.
But I digress... The Red Rooster Grill is about infinitely
more than mashed potatoes, however glorious they may
be. Chef/proprietor Matt McPherson, former chef du
cuisine at Hamilton's Grill Room in Lambertville,
presides over one of the most exciting culinary properties
to hit the Flemington area in a long, long time. Domiciled
in a venerable old building lovingly restored by Pickell
Architecture, the restaurant is comprised of two floors
that are innovatively but tastefully adorned. The
first floor, which contains a bustling open kitchen,
can become quite boisterous; the second floor is (relatively)
more sedate.
Mr. McPherson likes to refer to his establishment
as an "American chophouse." The cuisine
is reassuringly and restoratively robust, yet is decidedly
sophisticated in both preparation and presentation;
it also, as you would surmise, emphasizes the chef's
considerable talents at the grill.
Soups ($6.50) hold a prominent place among the starters,
and as there is always a triptych of possibilities
present and accounted for on the printed menu, Mr.
McPherson wisely gives patrons the opportunity to
sample all three ($7.50). You may, for example, be
treated to the unmitigated pleasure of a sensuously
subtle split pea garnished with a tiara of crisp crumbled
bacon in the distinguished company of a wild mushroom
broth with port chive cream and caramelized three-onion
soup with sherry and shaved Gruyere. On another occasion,
an intensely flavorful purée of roasted carrot
and ginger may take center stage or, perhaps, a Manhattan-style
seafood chowder.
On a more substantive note, the tower of tuna tartare
($12.00) is an excellent choice. The unctuous obelisk
is crowned with wasabi cream and presented with oblong
crisscrossed toasts and soy dipping sauce. Also highly
recommended is the vegetable terrine ($9.00) -- slender
strips of eggplant, roasted red pepper, and zucchini
separated by layers of creamy goat cheese -- garnished
with fresh greens and artistic waves of sweet balsamic
and chive oil. On the other hand, if you'd prefer
greenery, the baby spinach salad ($7.00) and the grilled
romaine doused with Parmesan dressing ($7.00) -- the
current culinary rage -- are both good bets.
Entrées highlight Mr. McPherson's love affair
with the grill. And should you entertain a passion
for finny fare, the grilled whole fish of the day
($26.00) (branzino during my two most recent visits)
-- which may be served intact or filleted in the kitchen
-- is clearly the way to go. The skin is crisp and
crackling, the flesh marvelously moist, and the accompanying
lemon caper butter stunning in its simplicity. The
grilled scallops ($27.00), a daily special, were also
quite nice, although I found the sun-dried tomato
vinaigrette a touch too astringent.
The pork chop roulade ($22.00) is another winner.
The meat is pounded thin then rolled with provolone,
Swiss, and mixed herbs and grilled to tender perfection.
The consummating touch is a heady mushroom Marsala
sauce.
Lovers of red meat, of course, also have some very
appetizing choices: rib-eye steak with cabernet demi-glace
($23.00), for instance, or peppercorn-encrusted New
York strip with tarragon shallot butter ($26.00).
As noted above, however, I opted for the filet mignon
($32.00). Velvety of texture and grilled to a mouthwatering
medium rare, you will find the accompanying blue cheese
sauce vividly assertive but not overpowering.
Accoutrements vary... With the pork and beef presentations,
you may be treated to those fabulous echoes-of-my-childhood
garlic whipped potatoes or a lovely amalgam of mashed
Idaho and sweet potatoes; piscatorial presentations,
on the other hand, are likely to be partnered with
orzo or couscous. Vegetable medleys also change from
day to day. On one occasion, a nicely seasoned combo
of shredded cabbage, zucchini, red onions, and red
peppers; on another, crunchy haricots verts and sugar
snap peas spruced up with julienne carrots and delicate
slices of red pepper.
Desserts ($7.00), all made on the premises, are worth
both the additional calories and the added expenditure.
Topping my list is a moist island of vanilla bread
pudding surrounded by a sea of rich dark chocolate.
Disarmingly decadent. Coming in a close second is
a creamy peanut butter torte built on a benchmark
graham cracker crust and topped with a luscious layer
of chocolate drizzled with caramel sauce.
As I noted above, Matt's Red Rooster Grill is one
of the most appealing eateries to make the scene in
this neck-of-the-woods in quite some time. Just how
appealing? On our most recent visit, my wife and I
drove an hour and fifteen minutes through a driving
rainstorm in order to put in an appearance. Given
the inclement weather, we were certain the precincts
would be sparsely populated at best. But we were dead
wrong. Even at 6:00 p.m., a relatively early hour
on a Saturday evening, the joint was already jumping.
Even though the restaurant has only been in operation
a scant five months and has yet to engage in a formal
advertising campaign, word has obviously already gotten
out... and, trust me, it's all been good. Once the
gastronomic hordes descend in earnest, I have no doubt
that tables will be at a premium. If you want to beat
the crowds, the time to make reservations is NOW...
And, as an added incentive, beginning the first week
of May, Matt's Red Rooster Grill will be open for
lunch Thursday - Saturday. Be sure to call for exact
hours.
Cuisine: American Chophouse/Grilled Specialties
Hours: Lunch: Thurs - Sat, beginning first week of
May; Dinner: Mon - Sat, 5:30 p.m. - Until; CLOSED
SUNDAY
Credit Cards: All major
Attire: Casual
Smoking: Smoking is not permitted in the restaurant.
Reservations: Recommended; essential on weekends.
Parking: Onsite
Alcohol: BYOB
Price: Moderate
Handicapped Accessible: Yes
Web Site: www.mattsredroostergrill.com
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